Dario Vitale’s Bold Debut Collection Revitalizes Versace’s Iconic Style

Among the designers who presented a debut collection for the famous house during fashion week this September, Dario Vitale stood out as one of the least conspicuous profiles. Until his appointment as chief creative officer of Versace in April, he hardly figured in the press – unlike Donatella Versace, who became synonymous with the brand.

That is why his first presentation for Versace drew heightened interest from editors, buyers, and fans of the brand. The question lingered: what would this new figure from Naples, the first person outside the family dynamics to lead the brand’s creative direction, bring, considering the Prada Group’s acquisition in a high-profile deal worth $1.38 billion, and the anticipated year-end outlook?

Finally, answers arrived on Sunday night: Vitale presented his first collection for the brand. Initially conceived as an intimate affair, it evolved into a full-scale show, whose guests were spread across two levels: Bianca Jagger, Mia Khalifa, Romi Beckham, and the South Korean rapper Hyunjin.

The invitation address – in the form of a passionate letter quoting English poet John Keats – hinted at a place in the center of Milan. Yet the guests’ arrival revealed that the location was the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana, the historic gallery that houses masterpieces by Caravaggio and Raphael.

Guests settled on two levels in different rooms, each space almost in a light disorder – from an office with a solitaire laid out on the desk to an unmade bed with shirts scattered about. Such an atmosphere proved a fitting backdrop for the new Versace, whose show notes described it as “an expression of a life lived freely, fully, and without apologies.”

The collection itself was sensual, vibrant, and uncompromising, with a nod to the spirit of the 80s. The show featured open vests, striped pants, leather jackets, and shimmering dresses, while models danced to a live soundtrack by Prince, George Michael, and Eurythmics. Also appearing were signature Versace motifs: the Medusa symbol on cardigans and gleaming plaid patterns on dresses – reminiscent of Claudia Schiffer’s look at the brand’s 2023 show.

A Fresh Take on Versace’s Heritage: Freedom and the Power of Style

Dario Vitale noted that since childhood he has known the Versace codes well, but he also viewed the brand’s archives through the lens of pop culture:

“It seems like Coca-Cola, you know. The famous name Versace, the brand so popular.”

“I was looking for the spirit of Versace beyond clothing, not copying specific items,” the designer said after the show. Rather than drawing inspiration from individual pieces, he sought to feel the brand’s overall mood and meaning.

“What is the spirit of Versace beyond clothing?”

Also in focus was the shirt motif – a key element of Versace’s heritage. At this summer’s Venice Film Festival, stars Julia Roberts and Amanda Seyfried wore the same striped shirt, which was later used in various variations across the show. According to Vitale, “the idea of wearing something with a high waist – it’s almost a stance, a way of controlling oneself.”

In the show’s styling, layering techniques were prominently featured: pairing a sporty crop top with a blouse and a jacket in finer leather from Miu Miu – the brand took on a new, more dynamic character. “There was a simple childhood formula: when you dress, there must always be a T-shirt, a shirt, and a sweater. That’s the foundation of every wardrobe,” he explained. Such multi-layered looks feel deeper and more intriguing, not merely classic and restrained.

“I wanted to make something very sexy out of this”

Vitale’s debut was an energetic statement that shattered the trend niche of neutral shades and soft cuts that had dominated Milan’s runways in recent years. And despite the fact that the show for Versace, alongside Prada’s Spring-Summer 2026 collection at the start of the week, showcased neon hues – acid orange, pink, and green – this underscores the future direction where brightness becomes a regular feature of the wardrobe.

Vitale’s debut underscored the resolve to refresh Versace’s image: boldness, audacity, and sophistication that preserve the brand’s essence while opening the doors to more expressive freedom and a youthful spirit.